Peaches are one of those fruits that I would never, ever buy out of season. Sometimes I wish that I could find the discipline to buy and eat only local, in season products as Barbara Kingsolver did, and then documented, in her book, Animal, Vegetable, Miracle. I was fascinated by her year-long challenge and adventure. But quite frankly, I can’t imagine never eating a banana or pineapple, nor could I bear going all winter with only canned or frozen vegetables and fruits. But it is an interesting concept and one that I try to keep in mind as I choose produce. Back to the peaches…knowing that the season is short makes us appreciate them all the more. Here are three peach recipes that we are enjoying this summer.
Now, I’ve made pies and tarts, crisps, crumbles and cobblers….but this is the first time that I have made a crostata. No particular reason, just never got around to it. Well, I’m here to tell you that I may never make another proper fruit pie. This crostata, or free form tart, couldn’t be easier and I just loved the way that the kids would slice off a wedge and carry on their way, no plate, fork or napkin. Such a casual, fun little pie. Of course, you could always dress it up for company with a lovely scoop of vanilla ice cream and a sprig of fresh mint. This recipe is adapted from Frank Stitt’s Southern Table.
(makes 2 small crostatas that will serve 4-6 each)
For the dough:
2 cups unbleached all purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/4 sticks unsalted butter, cup into 1/2 inch cubes and chilled
1/4 cup ice water
For the filling:
1/4 cup unbleached all purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar
4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter
2 1/2 pounds ripe peaches, pitted, peeled and sliced into 3/4 inch thick wedges
1 large egg yolk, beaten with 1 teaspoon heavy cream, for an egg wash
1 tablespoon coarse or granulated sugar for topping
To prepare the dough, combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse a few times to blend. Add the butter and pulse until it is the size of small peas, about 15 times. With the processor running, add the ice water and process for about 10 seconds. Stop the processor before the dough comes together. Turn the dough out onto a sheet of waxed paper, divide the dough in half, and shape it into two disks. Wrap them in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
Meanwhile, for the filling, combine the flour and sugar in a small bowl. Add the butter and cut the mixture together with a pastry knife or two table knives until the mixture resembles coarse meal.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Roll each disk of dough into an 11 inch circle on a lightly floured surface. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Place the peaches in the center of the dough circles on the baking sheet and top with the butter sugar mixture. Begin draping the edges up and over, forming about three pleats. crimp the pleats and press down to seal. Brush the pastries with egg wash and sprinkle with the coarse sugar.
Bake the tarts for about 25 minutes or until golden brown. let cool on a rack and serve warm or room temperature.
Fresh Peach Bellini
Mmm…fresh squeezed peach juice and Prosecco. This is a refreshing cocktail that is perfect for late summer parties. Harry’s Bar in Venice is the supposed creator of the peach Bellini. But theirs is made of white peach puree and is quite overpriced, if I remember correctly. This is another recipe from Frank Stitt, a chef and restaurateur from Birmingham Alabama. Not surprising that a southern chef would know what to do with peaches!
8 very ripe peaches
1 ounce simple syrup ( 1 cup sugar and 2 cups water, simmered for 2 minutes to dissolve. Cool.)
fresh lemon juice to taste
1 bottle prosecco, well chilled
Wash the peaches. Set a colander over a large bowl and , with clean hands, squeeze the whole peaches one at a time over the strainer to extract every bit of juice possible. You will need 3/4 cup juice. Add simple syrup and lemon juice to taste…depending on the ripeness of the peaches, you may need a little more syrup…and whisk to combine. Refrigerate the peach juice mixture until will chilled. In a large cocktail shaker or pitcher, combine the peach juice mixture with half of the prosecco. Let the foam settle and add the remaining prosecco. Stir and serve.
note: From my experience making this wonderful drink, you really need very ripe, never been refrigerated, peaches to be able to juice them in the way described. These photos were taken on a day when the farmers market peaches that I had were just perfect for juicing. A subsequent time, I had peaches from the grocery that advertised to be local but although ripe, they just wouldn’t release their juice so I ended up peeling and pureeing them to make the Bellini. While the taste was still very nice, the drink had a thicker consistency so not as light and refreshing.
If a dessert could be fresh and light, and luxurious and decadent at the same time, this would be it. And I am already counting up the ways that I will use this caramel recipe this fall and winter. I found this special dessert in At Home with Michael Chiarello.
2 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
3 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
8 large ripe peaches, halved, pitted, peeled if desired, and cut into 1/2 inch wide wedges
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Pour 1 cup cream into a small saucepan, bring to a boil over high heat, and then reduce the heat to low to keep the cream hot.
In a large, deep, heavy saucepan, combine 1 cup of the sugar with 3 tablespoons of the water and place over medium high heat. Heat the mixture, tilting and swirling the pan in a circular motion every now and again, until the sugar dissolves. As the sugar mixture begins to bubble, watch for crystals developing on the inside of the pan just above the liquid. Using a pastry brush dipped in water, brush the inside of the pan right above the crystals, so the water drips down and dissolves the crystals back into the liquid. When the sugar begins to brown, occasionally move the pan to swirl the liquid gently and cook it evenly. Continue to cook, without stirring, until the mixture is a dark golden brown. The total cooking time will be 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.
Very carefully, add the hot cream to the sugar mixture a few tablespoons at a time. The liquid will bubble up dramatically, so watch for spatters. Stir the sauce, place over medium heat, and cook for 1 minute. Pour into a heatproof bowl and add the vinegar and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and mix well. You should have a bout 1 1/4 cups sauce. You will only need 1/2 cup for this recipe; cover and reserve the remainder for another use.
Put the peaches in a bowl. Add the lemon juice and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and toss lightly to coat evenly. Divide the peaches evenly among individual glass bowls. Cover and refrigerator to chill the fruit.
In a bowl, using a mixer or a whisk, whip the remaining 1 1/2 cups cream with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar until stiff peaks form. Cover and refrigerate until serving.
To serve, plop a spoonful of whipped cream into each bowl of peaches. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the sauce over each bowl. Serves 8